Moradok Lanna🔍ไทย

🌐 อ่านภาษาไทย (original in Thai)

A folk music teacher sitting cross-legged on a mat, plucking a carved wooden sueng with gold patterns, at his home in Mae On District, Chiang Mai

Photo: Takeaway / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0)

Salo So Sueng: Lanna Folk Music and Its Instruments

Salo so sueng, or the salo so sueng ensemble (ว฿งฯสลํอฯซํอฯซึงฯ, wong salo so sueng), is the folk ensemble of Lanna, led by the salo and the sueng. The sweet sound of a bowed fiddle paired with the clear sound of a plucked lute is a sound Northern people know well from merit-making festivals, weddings and celebrations. This article introduces each instrument and answers the question: what does "so" in the ensemble's name mean?

ว฿งฯสลํอฯซํอฯซึงฯ
วงสะล้อซอซึง wong salo so sueng
Say it: wong-sà-láw-saw-sueng auto (à low · â falling · á high · ǎ rising · no mark = mid · double vowel = long)
a folk ensemble led by the salo and the sueng, accompanied by drums, a bamboo flute and small cymbals. The salo so sueng ensemble has a distinctive character that the ancestors of the Lanna people created, refined and developed over generations
Moradok Lanna dictionary entry (in Thai) →

What is salo so sueng?

The Moradok Lanna dictionary explains that the salo so sueng ensemble is "a folk ensemble led by the salo and the sueng, accompanied by drums, a bamboo flute and small cymbals", and an ensemble that "the ancestors of the Lanna people created, refined and developed over generations".

The research of Butsakon Samrongthong (บุษกร สำโรงทอง, 2009), which studied the culture of passing on Lanna music, states that the most famous music in the Lanna region is the salo, so, sueng ensemble, whose singers are called chang so (ช่างฯซํอฯ, Kham Mueang reading chang so).

Lanna folk instruments can be divided into 4 groups by the way they are played: plucked, bowed, struck and blown.

How it is played Instrument (Kham Mueang) Lanna script Meaning (from the dictionary)
Bowed Salo สลํอฯ a bowed instrument, like the so u fiddle
Plucked Sueng ซึงฯ a plucked instrument like a guitar, with 2 pairs of strings
Plucked Pia เพยฯะ a plucked instrument with a neck attached to half a coconut shell, which the player holds against the chest
Blown Pi ปี่ a wind instrument that accompanies so singing
Blown Khui (flute) ขุ่ made of ruak bamboo, with holes bored along its length
Struck Kong (drum) กลฯอฯง hollow wood with a skin stretched over it, struck with the hand or a stick
Struck Sawa ส่วฯา large cymbals, of the same family as the ching
Struck Sing (small cymbals) สิ่งฯ flat pieces of brass shaped like the lid of a khanom khrok pan

Salo: the coconut-shell fiddle

The salo (สลํอฯ, salo) is the bowed instrument of Lanna. The dictionary says it has several other names, such as salo (ซะลํ้อฯ, written ซะล้อ), and tha-lo (ถะล้อ or ธะล้อ). So the word si salo (สีสลอฯ, si salo) means "to play the fiddle, Lanna style".

สลํอฯ
สะล้อ salo
Say it: sà-láw auto (à low · â falling · á high · ǎ rising · no mark = mid · double vowel = long)
a bowed instrument used in the salo sueng ensemble of Lanna, like the so u fiddle; also called salo (ซะล้อ) or tha-lo (ถะล้อ, ธะล้อ); see also wong salo so sueng
Moradok Lanna dictionary entry (in Thai) →

The body of the salo is made from a coconut shell, which the Khon Mueang call a ka-long (กะโห้฿ลฯง, ka-long), used as the sound box. The research of Buranaphan Chaila (บูรณพันธุ์ ใจหล้า, 2020), which studied instrument makers in Chiang Mai, records that the sa-la (ส่ๆลฯา, sa-la), or craftsmen, like to use rosewood (mai chingchan), which the Khon Mueang call mai ket, for the neck, because it is a hardwood.

According to this study, the steps of making a salo are: making the neck, shaping the body, making the tuning pegs, making the bow, polishing the coconut shell, cutting the sound box, fitting the strings, tying the rattan band around the chest, and finally testing the sound. The wooden bridge that holds up the strings is called yong salo (อยฯอฯงสลํอฯ, yong salo) in the dictionary.

A salo and its bow, showing the coconut-shell body, the neck, the tuning pegs and the horsehair bow
A salo with its bow: the sound box is a coconut shell faced with a wooden board, with a long neck and the tuning pegs at its tip · Photo: Purinee Donchai / Wikimedia Commons (CC0)
💡 Did you know?
The Khon Mueang have a saying, si salo hue khwai fang (สีสลอฯหื้ฅวฯายฯฟังฯ, "playing the salo for a buffalo"). The dictionary explains it as "advising or teaching a foolish or slow-witted person, which is usually of no use". It is the same as the central Thai saying "playing the fiddle for a buffalo".

Sueng: the four-string lute

The sueng (ซึงฯ, sueng) is the plucked instrument of Lanna. The dictionary explains that it is "like a guitar, with 2 pairs of strings", making 4 strings in all.

ซึงฯ
ซึง sueng
Say it: sueng auto (à low · â falling · á high · ǎ rising · no mark = mid · double vowel = long)
a plucked folk instrument like a guitar, with 2 pairs of strings, played in the salo so sueng ensemble
Moradok Lanna dictionary entry (in Thai) →

The research of Kanlayani Saisuk (กัลยาณี สายสุข, 2021) explains that the sueng in common use come in 3 sizes: the small sueng (sueng tat), the medium sueng and the large sueng (sueng luang). Its main parts are the sound box, or hong siang, the soundboard, the neck, the frets, the bridge, the tuning pegs, the head and the strings.

The traditional way of making one is to cut a whole block of wood to shape, hollow out the inside as a sound box, and close the front with a wooden board. The favourite woods are teak and jackfruit. The same study also records a new idea from craftsmen in Thoeng District, Chiang Rai, who build sueng from old teak taken from furniture, doors and window panels, to use less wood.

ℹ️ Info
The salo and the sueng come in 3 sizes: small, medium and large. Buranaphan Chaila (2020) found that all three sizes "are built by the same method, differing only in size and pitch", and that Lanna musicians have developed a tuning system called luk sam–luk si ("third–fourth"), which has become a standard widely used today.

An example of tuning: the craftsman Kachon Thewokhat explains that on a luk sam salo the low string is tuned to do and the high string to sol of the flute.

What does "so" in the ensemble's name mean?

The word so (ซํอฯ, so) in the Lanna language does not mean a bowed instrument. The dictionary explains that it is a verb meaning "to sing Lanna folk songs", also called "so puen mueang" (local so). The singer is the chang so, and singing is called khap so (ขัปฯซํอฯ, khap so).

⚠️ Watch out
Don't confuse the central Thai so (a bowed fiddle, such as the so u or so duang) with the Lanna so (folk singing). In the name "salo so sueng ensemble", the bowed instrument is the salo, while so is the voice of the chang so. So songs and choi recitation will be covered in a separate article in the literature category.

Under the word pheng so (เพลฯงซํอฯ, pheng so), the dictionary divides so singing into 2 cultural zones, each with a different accompanying ensemble.

Western Lanna, that is Chiang Mai, Lamphun, Lampang and Chiang Rai, sings so with the pi or the pi chum ensemble, in which pipes lead the accompaniment. Together this is called "so Chiang Mai".

The pi chum ensemble: three pipes accompanying the singers

Pi chum (ปี่ชุม, pi chum) literally means "a set of pipes", because chum means "set". The dictionary explains that the pi chum sam (ปี่ชุมสามฯ, pi chum sam) has 3 pipes:

  • Pi kho (ปี่โข้, pi kho): the largest pipe in the set, also called pi mae ("mother pipe").
  • Pi kang (ปี่กลฯางฯ, pi kang): the medium pipe.
  • Pi koi (ปี่ก้อฯยฯ, pi koi): the small pipe.

Adding a pi tat makes 4 pipes, called pi chum si, and adding a pi nang as well makes 5, called pi chum ha. The salo can also play with the pipe ensemble: the dictionary says the salo is "played with the pipe ensemble in so singing, and used to accompany choi recitation".

Drum bands and pat kong: Lanna percussion music

Besides string ensembles, Lanna has several kinds of percussion band. Butsakon Samrongthong (2009) found that percussion bands have different names in different places, such as phat khong, wong pat and klong teng thing, but the most widespread name is pat kong (พาท์ยฯค้อฯง, pat kong).

Band / instrument Lanna script Meaning (from the dictionary)
Kong luang กลฯอฯงหลฯวฯง a large, long single-headed drum with a narrow waist, popular for loudness contests and for leading processions of offerings
Kong aeo กลฯอฯงแอวฯ a single-headed drum like the kong luang but smaller, about 1.5–2 metres long
Kong ta-lot-pot กลฯอฯงตห฿ลฯดป฿ดฯ a small double-headed drum that keeps the rhythm for the large drum
Tueng nong ตึ่งฯโน฿งฯ procession music, with the kong aeo, ta-lot-pot, gongs, cymbals and pi nae
Pi nae ปี่แน a horn, like the Mon oboe
Kong pu che กลฯอฯงปู่เจ่ a single-headed drum played hanging from the shoulder, an instrument of the Tai Yai (Shan)

The dictionary explains that when the kong aeo is played together with gongs, sawa cymbals and the ta-lot-pot drum, it is called kong tueng nong after the sound it makes, and each area has its own name: Lamphun calls it kong poeng mong, Lampang kong tok seng, and Phrae and Nan kong uet sueng. Read more about the great drum at merit-making festivals in the article Poy Luang.

Music teachers and passing on the tradition

Lanna music is passed on from teacher to pupil. Butsakon Samrongthong (2009) explains that most learning takes place at the teacher's house, where pupils learn not only music but also conduct and morals by following the teacher's example, and that musicians of every lineage hold a wai khru ceremony (ไห้วฯระฯคู, wai khu) to pay respect to their teachers.

The 3 kinds of Lanna music wai khru ceremony, and the lineage of salo and sueng makers

3 kinds of wai khru ceremony (Butsakon Samrongthong, 2009)

  • The ceremony of entering discipleship, for beginners
  • The wai khru before a performance, to ask permission from and pay respect to the teachers, and to ask for their blessing on the performance
  • The annual wai khru, held around mid-April at the New Year
  • For chang so singers there is also a special ceremony called baeng khru so ("dividing the so teacher") for those who wish to become professional singers

The lineage of salo and sueng makers in Chiang Mai (Buranaphan Chaila, 2020)

  • The tradition of making salo and sueng began with Chao Sunthon na Chiang Mai, who passed it on to Bunrat Thipparat, a woodturner who lived with Chao Sunthon for about 20 years.
  • Bunrat passed it on to his pupils, such as Kachon Thewokhat, a salo and sueng maker recognised by Lanna musicians today.
  • Over roughly the past 50 years, Lanna instruments have developed in beauty, sound quality, the division into small, medium and large sizes, and the luk sam–luk si tuning system.
💡 Did you know?
If you want to hear so singing of the old days, the dictionary has the word kong so (ก้ลฯอฯงซํอฯ, kong so), or bok so, meaning the early gramophones that used shellac records and "had only so singing, or so duets between a man and a woman". This shows that so songs were already the popular music of Lanna people in the age of the gramophone record.

Summary

  • The salo so sueng ensemble is the Lanna folk ensemble led by the salo and the sueng, with drums, flute and small cymbals.
  • The salo is a bowed fiddle with a coconut-shell sound box, and the sueng is a plucked instrument with 4 strings (2 pairs). Both come in 3 sizes.
  • The so in the ensemble's name means the folk singing of the chang so, not a central Thai bowed fiddle.
  • So Chiang Mai is accompanied by the pi chum pipe ensemble, while so Nan is accompanied by the salo and the sueng (pin).
  • Lanna also has percussion bands, such as pat kong, tueng nong and the great drum, passed on from teacher to pupil with wai khru ceremonies.

Look up more Lanna words about music in the Moradok Lanna dictionary (in Thai), and read courting choi verses in the article Kwang Lanna.

Sources

Look up "วงสะล้อซอซึง" in the Moradok Lanna dictionary (in Thai)

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