Moradok Lanna

🌐 อ่านภาษาไทย (original in Thai)

A market stall of herbal medicines: roots, bark, rhizomes and dried pods in colourful baskets

Photo: Gigi2562 / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

Mo Mueang, Ya Mueang: Lanna Healers and Remedies

Before every district had a hospital, the first person people in northern Thailand turned to when they fell ill was the mo mueang (หํมฯอฯเมิอฯง). The dictionary explains the mo mueang as a Lanna folk healer who treats people with spells and incantations, with spirit possession, or with ya mueang (อยฯาเมิอฯง), local herbal medicine made in many forms.

This article gathers Kham Mueang words about healers and medicine from the Moradok Lanna dictionary: the names for different kinds of healer, ways of treating, kinds of medicine, herbs, and words for being ill. It is a language lesson and a window on Lanna folk wisdom.

⚠️ Watch out
This article is about language and culture. It is not medical advice. The medicines, herbs and treatments described here come from the dictionary's definitions; nothing here tells you how to use them or how much to take. If you are ill, see a doctor or a health professional.
หํมฯอฯเมิอฯง
หมอเมือง mo mueang
Say it: mǎw-mueang auto (à low · â falling · á high · ǎ rising · no mark = mid · double vowel = long)
a Lanna folk healer: someone skilled in treating illness with incantations and blowing spells, wiping, scraping with a charmed knife and bone-setting; with spirit possession (mot); or with herbal medicine (mo ya). One who uses all three is called mot mo
Moradok Lanna dictionary entry (in Thai) →

Mo in Kham Mueang does not only mean doctor

The dictionary gives mo (หํมฯอฯ) a wider meaning than central Thai does: first an expert or someone learned in any field, then a doctor who treats illness, and as an adjective, skilled. So people in the north call experts of many kinds mo.

Kham Mueang Lanna script Meaning (from the dictionary)
mo khwam หํมฯอฯฅวฯามฯ lawyer
mo pa หํมฯอฯป่า hunter, someone who knows the forest
mo chang หํมฯอฯช้างฯ elephant expert, who performs the elephant's soul-calling rite
mo twai หํมฯอฯทวฯาฯยฯ fortune-teller, astrologer who picks auspicious times (also mo muea หํมฯอฯเมิ่อฯอ, mo hu la หํมฯอหูรา)
mo duk kai หํมฯอฯดูกไก่ a diviner who reads the future by pushing slivers of wood into the leg bones of a chicken freshly killed in the rite
mo ngon หํมฯอฯง่อฯร the man who strikes the pig's nape with a stick in a sacrificial rite
💡 Did you know?
Some words that begin with mo have nothing to do with healers: mon (pillow), mok (mist) and mong (dull, cloudy). Don't split the syllables the wrong way.

Mo mueang: the many kinds of Lanna folk healer

The dictionary describes three ways a mo mueang treats people. The first uses magic: incantations, blowing spells, wiping, scraping with a charmed knife and bone-setting. The second is called mot: spirit possession, healing through the spirit world. The third is mo ya (หํมฯอฯอยฯา), healing with herbal medicine. A healer who uses all three is called a mot mo (ม฿ดฯหมฯอฯ).

Healers who treat the sick

Kham Mueang Lanna script Meaning (from the dictionary)
mo mueang หํมฯอฯเมิอฯง Lanna folk healer (also mo ya)
mot mo ม฿ดฯหมฯอฯ a mo mueang who treats with magic, spirit possession and herbal medicine all at once
mo pao หํมฯอฯเปั่า a folk healer who recites a spell and blows it over the patient's body, sometimes with herbs too
mo yam khang หํมฯอฯย่ำขางฯ a mo mueang who treats by yam khang (treading on hot iron, below)
mo khwak sui หํมฯอฯขวฯากฯซุ a bone-setter who treats broken bones with spells and sesame oil, using bamboo splints
mo nuat หํมฯอฯนวฯด a masseur who loosens tight sinews and muscles (also chang bip)
mo chang หํมฯอฯจั้งฯ midwife (a different word from the elephant expert above; the tone differs)
mae chang แม่ช่างฯ midwife, a woman who delivers babies the traditional way (also mae chang แม่ชั่งฯ)

The dictionary praises the mo pao as a folk healer with a real role in rural life. The knowledge passes down from a grandfather, father or teacher. The fee is a small token of thanks, or nothing at all if the patient has no money, and once well again the patient often brings food or useful things as thanks.

⚠️ Watch out
The dictionary has several names for a midwife: mo tamyae (หํอฯทําฯแย), mae chang and mo chang. Be careful with a similar-sounding word, mae jang, which the dictionary also records as meaning a sex worker. To talk about a midwife, mae chang is the clear choice.

Healers of ritual and spells

These healers belong to the world of spirit beliefs and unseen power. The dictionary records them like this.

Kham Mueang Lanna script Meaning (from the dictionary)
mo phi หํมฯอฯผี spirit doctor, who uses spells to invite, drive away or subdue spirits
mo song khuet หํมฯอฯส่฿งฯขึดฯ an expert in rites to ward off bad luck, sending misfortune away
mo pai mo paeng หํมฯอฯไป่ลฯหํมฯอฯแปลฯง love-charm maker, who uses spells to make people love or hate each other
mo tu หํมฯอฯตู้ someone who uses spells to bring harm on another person, according to belief

For more spirit words, such as ma khi (a medium) and long phi (a séance), see Phi in Kham Mueang.

ℹ️ Info
Folk healers still have a role today. Thailand's Ministry of Public Health issued the Regulation on the Certification of Folk Healers B.E. 2562 (2019). It defines a folk healer as someone with the knowledge to promote and care for local people's health through Thai traditional medicine wisdom passed down in the community for at least 10 years and respected by that community (THE STANDARD, 2019).

How a mo mueang treats

Many treatments have their own names in Kham Mueang. This table describes them as the dictionary records them, so you know the words. It is not a guide to try them yourself.

Kham Mueang Lanna script Meaning (from the dictionary)
pao เปั่า the healer recites a spell and blows on the sore place to draw out poison
haek แหกฯ the healer charms a mit mo with a spell, then scrapes, strokes or rubs the sore place many times (also haek แรกฯ)
mit mo มีดฯหํมฯอฯ a small charmed knife, often of wood from a tree killed by lightning, used in rites and healing (also mit haek มีดฯแหกฯ)
yam khang ยาขางฯ the healer dips a foot in plai juice or sesame oil, steps on red-hot cast iron, then treads on the patient's body while reciting spells
tok sen ตอฯกเส้นฯ herbal oil is rubbed on, then a wooden peg is tapped along tight sinews and muscles while spells are recited over the mallet
khwak sui ขวฯากฯซุย treating wounds and setting broken bones with blown spells and herbal medicine
bip บีบฯฯ to massage, knead, as in bip khaeng bip kha (massage the legs)
khatha คาฯถา a spell, words held to be sacred
nam mon นาฯม฿น์ตฯ holy water, blessed with Buddhist chanting or a spell, drunk, sprinkled or bathed in for good fortune
ยาขางฯ
ย่ำขาง yam khang
Say it: yâm-khǎang auto (à low · â falling · á high · ǎ rising · no mark = mid · double vowel = long)
a cure by a mo mueang: dipping the foot in plai juice or sesame oil, stepping on cast iron heated red-hot, then treading on the painful parts of the patient's body while reciting spells
Moradok Lanna dictionary entry (in Thai) →
💡 Did you know?
Khang (ขางฯ) in yam khang means cast iron, but the same word also means mouth ulcers, and as a verb it means to be jealous or possessive, as in mia khang phua, a wife jealous of her husband.
A masseur's hands massaging a foot
*mo nuat / bip* · Thai foot massage (illustration)
Photo: Mattes / Wikimedia Commons (Public domain)

Ya mueang: medicine in many forms

The dictionary says local medicine comes in many forms, such as ya tom (boiled), ya fon, ya hom, ya sak, ya dong (steeped), ya sup, ya phong (powder), ya met (pills), ya tha (ointment) and ya chu. The kinds the dictionary explains are below.

อยฯาเมิอฯง
ยาเมือง ya mueang
Say it: yaa-mueang auto (à low · â falling · á high · ǎ rising · no mark = mid · double vowel = long)
local herbal medicine used to treat illness, in many forms such as ya tom, ya fon, ya hom, ya sak, ya dong, ya sup, powders, pills, ointments and ya chu
Moradok Lanna dictionary entry (in Thai) →

Medicine taken by mouth

Kham Mueang Lanna script Meaning (from the dictionary)
ya fon อยฯาฝ฿นฯ herbal medicine ground against a stone with a carrier liquid to make nam ya fon for the patient to drink
ya that อยฯาธาฯตฯ in Thai traditional medicine, remedies that bring the body's elements back into balance
ya kae อยฯาแก้ a mixed herbal remedy in small dark brown or black pellets, for many complaints such as stomach ache and wind

Ya fon comes from fon (ฝ฿นฯ). Besides rain, fon is a verb meaning to grind or rub on a stone, as in fon mit (sharpen a knife) and fon ya (grind medicine). The dictionary records that ya fon was made from plants (roots, tubers, stems), from animal parts such as tiger fangs and deer horn, and from minerals believed to be sacred.

Medicine used on the body

Kham Mueang Lanna script Meaning (from the dictionary)
ya chu อยฯาจู้ a herbal compress in a cloth bag, steamed hot and pressed on the body to ease aches or pain
ya kop อยฯาคอฯบ a poultice laid on a painful spot or a wound
ya khom hua อยฯาข฿มฯห฿วฯ a compress for the head
ya ap อยฯาอาปฯ medicine soaked in or mixed with bath water
ya hom อยฯาร฿มฯ medicine used by smoking or steaming the patient
ya phu อยฯาผู่ medicine chewed or mixed with water and then sprayed from the mouth over the patient
ya mong อยฯาห่มฯอฯง a fragrant, hot balm rubbed on insect bites or aching muscles
A clay pot of boiled herbal medicine with its lid beside it
*ya tom* · boiled herbal medicine in a clay pot (illustration)
Photo: Government of Thailand / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 2.0)
A wooden cabinet with shelves of herbal-medicine jars
*herbal medicine cabinet* · Siriraj Museum, Bangkok
Photo: Athikhun.suw / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

Medicines named after the illness

Many medicine names carry the illness in them: learn the illness word and you can guess the medicine.

Kham Mueang Lanna script Meaning (from the dictionary)
ya kae sang อยฯาแก้ซางฯ medicine for a wasting illness of children and for mouth ulcers (also ya khang อยฯาขางฯ)
ya kae pit อยฯาแก้พิษฯฯ antidote for poison (also ya dap pit อยฯาดัปฯพิษฯฯ)
ya kae lu tong อยฯาแก้หลฯท้อฯง medicine for diarrhoea
ya tut lueat อยฯาทุดเลิอฯด medicine to stop bleeding
ya pi อยฯาปิ medicine for fainting
ya sa อยฯาซะ medicine to expel poison or worms (also ya sawa อยฯาซวฯะ, ya sa อยฯาสะ)
ya thu อยฯาถุ medicine to expel worms (also ya lu อยฯาหลฯ)
ya thip อยฯาถีปฯ medicine to expel poisons

A verb worth knowing is ya tua (อยฯาต฿วฯ): to nurse yourself back to health.

Herbs the dictionary says are used for medicine

Many plants in a northern kitchen are both food and medicine. This table lists only plants whose dictionary entry says they are used to make medicine.

Kham Mueang Lanna script English Meaning (from the dictionary)
pu-loei พลฯเลิยฯ plai a herb with a rhizome like galangal, yellow-green inside, used for medicine
khing ขิงฯ ginger a herb with a hot rhizome, used in cooking and medicine
kha ข่า galangal a herb with a pungent rhizome, used in cooking and medicine
ba kham pom บ่าฯขามฯป้อฯม Indian gooseberry sour, astringent, slightly sweet fruit, used for medicine
ba na บ่าฯนะ myrobalan flowers, fruit and bark are used in many medicines
som poi ส฿มฯป่อฯยฯ soap pod every part is used for medicine; the dried pods make the scented water for the Dam Hua rite
fang ฝางฯ sappan wood a thorny tree with red heartwood, used for medicine or dye
ya kha ห้ยฯาฅา cogon grass leaves thatch roofs, the rhizome is used for medicine
nga งา sesame seeds pressed for oil; sesame oil is used in yam khang and khwak sui
Old botanical drawing of plai with a red flower spike and rhizome
*pu-loei* · plai (Zingiber montanum), old botanical plate
Photo: Francisco Manuel Blanco (O.S.A.) / Wikimedia Commons (Public domain)
A pile of fresh ginger rhizomes
*khing* · ginger rhizomes
Photo: Judethedeus / Wikimedia Commons (CC0)
A pile of pale galangal rhizomes
*kha* · galangal rhizomes
Photo: Susan Slater / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)
Many pale green Indian gooseberry fruits
*ba kham pom* · Indian gooseberry
Photo: Krish Dulal / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)
A pile of dried brown myrobalan fruits
*ba na* · dried myrobalan (Terminalia chebula)
Photo: Salil Kumar Mukherjee / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)
A heap of dried purple-brown soap-pod pods
*som poi* · dried soap pods (Acacia concinna)
Photo: Thamizhpparithi Maari / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)
Yellow flower spikes of the sappan tree
*fang* · sappan wood flowers
Photo: J.M.Garg / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 3.0)
Cogon grass with fluffy white flower heads
*ya kha* · cogon grass
Photo: Apurv013 / Wikimedia Commons (CC0)

A study from the Faculty of Humanities, Chiang Mai University (2024) gathered the folk-medicine vocabulary of ethnic groups in Lanna from 256 documents. It found 1,858 terms, and the largest group was herbal therapy, which shows that knowledge of herbal medicine sits at the heart of this tradition.

A labelled medicinal-herb garden at a hospital
*herb garden* · Na Wa Hospital, Nakhon Phanom
Photo: Mattes / Wikimedia Commons (Public domain)

Words for being ill

To talk with a mo mueang you need words for symptoms too. The one to remember is mueai (เมิ่อฯยฯ), which in Kham Mueang means to feel unwell, feverish and weak. The word khai (ไข้), fever, is noted in the dictionary as a borrowing: older Lanna used mueai.

Kham Mueang Lanna script Meaning (from the dictionary)
mueai เมิ่อฯยฯ unwell, feverish and weak; also tired, aching muscles
khai pa ไข้ป่า "forest fever": malaria
khai pang ไข้ป้างฯ chronic malarial fever with an enlarged liver and spleen
sang ซางฯ a childhood illness in old medical texts, as in pen sang
kiao ก่ยฯว cramp: a muscle suddenly tight, hard and painful
ma-hok มโห฿กฯ a wasting illness in old medical texts: thin, weak, yellowish (also ba hok)
chu ชุ bruised, sore
puat ปวฯด to ache, as in puat hua (headache)
ai ไอ to cough
fi ฝี a boil, an abscess
tum ตุ่ม a bump on the skin, as in tum yung (mosquito bite)
hai หายฯ to get well, as in hai khai (recover from a fever)

Ya that does not mean medicine

Some Kham Mueang words begin with ya but lead somewhere else entirely. Knowing them saves misunderstandings.

Ya meaning "to patch a leak." As a verb, ya is used for sealing something so it stops leaking: ya lang-kha (อยฯาหัลฯงฅา, patch a leaking roof), ya huea (อยฯาเริอฯอ, caulk a boat) and ya nam khu (อยฯานาฯฅุ, seal a leaking water bucket).

Ya meaning tobacco, as in ya sup (อยฯาสูบ), ya khuen (อยฯาขื่นฯ, strong tobacco), ya chang (อยฯาจางฯ, mild tobacco), ya pae (อยฯาแระฯพ่, fine tobacco from Phrae) and ya khwan (อยฯาฅัวฯร), a cigarette. These are here for the language, not as an invitation to smoke.

Ya that is poison: ya pit (อยฯาพิษฯฯ, poison) and ya buea (อยฯาเบิอฯอ, a toxin that stupefies).

Words such as yam (time), yao (long) and yai (grandmother) are different words with nothing to do with medicine.

Summary

  • Mo in Kham Mueang also means an expert: mo khwam (lawyer), mo pa (hunter), mo twai (fortune-teller).
  • A mo mueang heals in three ways: spells and blowing, spirit possession (mot) and herbal medicine (mo ya). One who uses all three is a mot mo.
  • Treatments have their own names: pao, haek, yam khang, tok sen, khwak sui.
  • Ya mueang comes in many forms, such as ya fon, ya chu (compress) and ya kop (poultice); ya tua means to nurse yourself back to health.
  • Mueai means to feel unwell, and ya can also mean to patch a leak, or tobacco.

Look up more words in the Moradok Lanna dictionary. For beliefs, read Phi in Kham Mueang and Hong Khwan, or see soap pods in a rite at Dam Hua.

Sources

Look up "หมอเมือง" in the Moradok Lanna dictionary (in Thai)

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